BYRON - THE RONALDO

London, UK

In the spirit of the World Cup, and as an excuse to visit the new Byron that’s opened up in Shoreditch, I tried the limited edition Ronaldo Burger. Named after the 90s Brazilian football phenomenon, this double cheeseburger has crispy bacon, pickles, soft butter onions and fried onions. There are no special sauces on this burger, only ketchup and American mustard. Its price of £13 is a  hint to the sheer size of the burger, as Byron’s standard burgers cost between £7-9.  When the waitress placed it on the table, it toppled over, another hint that it was too large.  What stood out to me at the first bite was the very thin and perfectly cooked bacon, along with the classic pickles. The flavours all worked really well, but there was just too much meat. I’m not a big fan of double-patty hamburgers, as it messes with a trialled and tested meat-to-bread ratio that works so well in a single burger. I think this burger would be a lot more enjoyable with less meat, so that you manage to give more of your attention to the delicious toppings. Additionally, Byron has such tasty sides, that it is a shame to fill up on the burger without being able to enjoy enough their French Fries, Proper Olives and Oreo Cookie Milkshakes. I had to get the olives to go, as I really could not eat another bite of anything. It was nice to try it, but already when people have asked me about it, I haven’t recommended it. The list of garnishes on The Ronaldo had so much potential, it was disappointing that it just did not balance out with the patties. I’d rather stick to my usual choice of the Cheeseburger with American cheese and Byron sauce on the side.    

www.byronhamburgers.com

OHISAMA

London, UK

Yet another Japanese fusion restaurant has opened in London. Aside from the continually expanding burger scene, new Japanese restaurants and pop ups seem to be dominating the headlines. Upon getting word that an ex-Nobu chef of 15 years has opened a new restaurant in Marylebone, the table for dinner was immediately booked and my imagination ran loose fantasising about what dishes would be served, as Ohisama still does not have a website. Recommended by a friend as having some of the best sushi in London, I can say that my friend’s statement was right on target. Currently operated as a BYOB establishment, Ohisama can go by unnoticed and even seem unappealing from its shop front, with its uninspired interiors and harsh fluorescent lighting. Suffice it to say the ambience will not draw a crowd through its generic glass doors and onto its small sushi bar by the entrance; which is more tolerable that the seating area in the basement that is quite depressing with a tomb-like feeling.  As harsh as the interiors are, one does not go to Ohisama for the scene but to indulge in the food, where all the heart, soul and energy have been poured. The food is exceptional with only a few disappointments; such as the spicy tuna roll, which was less than mediocre; quite frankly surprisingly awful, especially when compared to the spicy tuna roll of Kurobuta. The fried oysters are also not recommendable with an overbearing taste of salt and oozing dollops of oil. Such disappointments however now seem only but a minor infraction in an otherwise delicious meal. The lobster salad was fresh and crunchy, as was the yellow tail sashimi with jalapeño. Both are identical to those served in Nobu; it doesn’t take a genius to recognize such signature dishes. The wagyu beef tataki with ponzu sauce is also a winner as it’s seared to perfection with a sauce that makes you want to drink it on its own. The highlights of the meal were the delectable razor clams which I still dream of, the incomparably fresh fatty tuna with a sauce that puts any sauce to shame, which was also featured on the house special roll: the Dr. Watson roll; a heavenly maki of essentially yellowtail. The icing on an otherwise pretty perfect meal was the eel maki with foie gras, which as a roll I feel is a testament to the finesse and creativity of some of the food offered at Ohisama. Despite its unattractive exterior, Ohisama ends up winning you over with its fresh and delicious food. London will soon be hearing more and more of this small outpost in Marylebone, as it wins over one Londoner at a time.

EL 7 MARES

Los Angeles, CA

El 7 Mares is a tiny Mexican open-air restaurant in the Silverlake area of LA. I first saw it from across the road when I was having breakfast at FoodLab. I was surprised by how many people were visiting this shabby, gas-station looking eatery. I thought it looked so bad, it had to be good. Later that day I was reading an old TimeOut about cheap eats in LA, and this place was recommended for their fish tacos and ceviche. We headed down at sunset, and there was still a steady flow of people. We parked outside the little, neon-lit building which is placed in the middle of a parking lot, and had a seat in one of the plastic booths. The crowd was a mixture of hipsters and casually dressed Mexicans, creating a very LA vibe. Since we also had two taco food trucks on the list of places to eat that night, we didn't order much. From the illustrated menu above the counter we picked out shrimp tacos and fish tacos. The small portions were served with fresh lime to squeeze over, and a chilli sauce on the side that I didn't need much of due to its spiciness  Both types of tacos were a perfect blend of tangy and salty, and although fried, it did not come off as greasy. Out of the two I preferred the shrimp tacos, but would still order a variety just to mix it up. Their shrimp cocktail is also renowned, so if I ever get to go again, that will be next on my list.   

BEAST

London, UK

London’s latest arrival on the culinary scene comes courtesy of the team that have brought us the delicious Goodman Steakhouse and the London breakout, and now staple: Burger and Lobster. Suffice it to say expectations were high and our palettes restlessly eager to try what new offerings were to be bestowed upon us in this new mecca of meat and crab. Some important facts to know about Beast, firstly it offers a set menu consisting of beef as a first course and crab as the second, so if you’re a vegetarian this place is not for you. As a matter of fact considering how good it is, if you’re a vegetarian it’s about time to consider eating meat (no offence intended). Secondly, Beast accommodates its diners on communal dining tables in its candle lit dining room; three dining tables sculpted of heavy wood and set with candelabras, creating a medieval and equally mystical vibe to the restaurant, one of a wine cellar almost. One last and important detail to note is that dinner at Beast costs £75 a head excluding drink and dessert.

Now in terms of my experience at Beast; it was nothing short of sensational. Arriving at the restaurant, the ambience on its ground entrance floor is quite the antithesis to what was to come after. The entrance features an oversized beast (bear) sculpture in a triple height glazed and marble floored lobby, giving it a very corporate and sterile ambience. Once my reservation details were gathered by the maître-d, I was shown to the lift to take me down to the restaurant. In the basement, a waitress addressing me by my name (nice personal touch) was waiting and escorted my party and me to our side of the table. Moments after being seated, a smiling waiter briefed us on the concept of the restaurant, took our drink orders and prompted an oncoming waiter to serve us with the antipasti. The antipasti consisted of parmesan cheese (a whole wheel of parmesan was presented) with pickled onions, artichokes and olives. We nibbled on parmesan while sipping our wine until our first course arrived: the meat. The beef served at Beast is Nebraskan beef, served in a New Orleans style steak, which basically means one thing: it’s delicious. The meat was of an exceptionally high quality, which is to be expected from the patrons of Goodman steakhouse. Cooked to medium, it was tender, juicy and melted in my mouth. The steak was served with a side of a smoked tomato salad, green salad and asparagus as well as a delicious creamed truffle sauce to compliment the steak. The tomato salad was divine, and the truffle sauce heavenly although the steak was too good to have a sauce with it; instead I enjoyed it with the grilled asparagus. Upon completing our meat we were given at our request a 10-minute break until the crab arrived. The King Crab from Norway surpassed any crabmeat I have had (excluding a clambake in Cape Cod years ago), extra-large in size and rich in meat and just simply heavenly. Despite how full we already were we could not resist ordering dessert and opted for one of each type: the cheesecake and the lemon mousse. The lemon mousse had an excellent texture and a refreshing zest, and the cheesecake that was a deconstructed concoction of bliss just blew my mind. The whole experience at Beast was a triumph, and as it slowly garners attention it will undoubtedly become an ‘it’ place contending among the London heavy weights.

Update: Beast now also has an a la carte menu. 

www.beastrestaurant.co.uk

LOMA LINDA

México DF, México

Restaurante Loma Linda is a historical restaurant in Mexico City's Chapultepec area. After overdosing on seafood for a week, I was excited to go to this reputable Argentinian steak place. We had made reservations at the semi-covered terrace, but we were 15 minutes late, so the table was given away. They seem to be quite strict with timing tables in Mexico, as several times on this trip we lost our spot when we were a bit late. After some discussion we managed to get another table in the beautiful and green pergola area. The terrace seating is very popular not only because of the warm weather, but because you are still allowed to smoke in these in Mexico. We started with a dish I had heard about before going to Mexico, called chori-queso, which consists of lots of melted cheese with bits of chorizo in it. You simply put it in a soft taco, and enjoy greasy deliciousness. We then shared two different cuts of steak. Both were served on a hot plate, so we quickly threw all of it unto our plates to make sure the rare beef didn’t overcook on the table. Next to it were fried onions with green chillies that should not be mistaken for Spanish padrón peppers. I was luckily warned that they were very spicy, so I stayed away. As sides we had crispy fries with truffle oil and a simple salad with lots of crunch and freshness to the vegetables. As with most of our lunches in Mexico, the food was accompanied by lots of classic margaritas on the rocks, and the ones at Loma Linda were served to an archetypal perfection. This restaurant also prides themselves on their homemade desserts. We were all very full, so we only shared one piece of cheesecake between the four of us. It was very good, but I generally prefer lighter desserts after a meal like this. I was so happy with all of the food that I forgot to photograph it until I was full, thus you only see the reject pieces of meat that cooked a bit too much on the sizzle platter. I loved Loma Linda, both for the consistency of the quality of the dishes and for the peaceful setting. Lots more posts from my trip to Mexico to follow. 

www.lomalinda.com.mx

THE FARMHOUSE

Burlington, USA

When I asked for recommendations of restaurants in Burlington, Vermont, Farmhouse was the one that came up the most. It is located just off the main street, in a site that used to house McDonald’s. This branch of the infamous burger chain is one of the few that has closed down due to little turnaround. The people of Burlington are very health-conscious (despite it being the birth town of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream), so the Farmhouse took over, selling locally sourced food and beer. We went there on a weeknight, and the place was packed. After a quick drink at the downstairs bar, we got a perfect table outside. To start with I had a tiny portion of VT Cheddar Ale soup with garlic croutons. This was super good, and I’d gladly have it as a main dish. We also shared a starter of Marrow Toast, from which you couldn’t taste any bone marrow, so I don’t recommend that particular dish. The staff kindly divided our mains into two plates so that we could share easily. We had the burger of local grass fed beef, and gnocchi with rabbit meat. I always hesitate to order rabbit because I had them as pets when I was little and they’re cute, but they were also pretty darn delicious. The house-made gnocchi was in the shape of wide, flat bands, which made it feel closer to pasta, something I really enjoyed. The burger meat was cooked to a very juice level, and we got a sense that all of the ingredients were fresh. The fries were crispy, which is a must, and the portion sizes suitable. All in all it was a really good meal, with friendly service and a lively but relaxed ambiance. I understand why it is so popular. The Farmhouse Group also have a nearby Mexican cantina called El Cortijo, which I really wish I had tried while I was there. It’s a good reason to go back to the cosy town of Burlington though.

 

ww.farmhousetg.com

B.O.B'S & Co

London, UK

B.O.B’s & Co is a pop-up restaurant in the Rising Sun pub near St Paul’s Cathedral. Soon after we heard about it, we gave them a call, and surprisingly it was possible to book tables! They said that they get a lot of walk-ins, as people have become so used to the no-reservation policy in London. We went up the side entrance of the pub, into a warm and cosy space, which had an air of impermanence to it, due to the fake-brick wallpaper and the shared loos. We started with some drinks while looking over the menu. The cocktail list was short but good, with classic drinks such as Negroni and Old Fashioned. We ordered deep fried oysters, tuna sashimi tacos, seared scallops with mushrooms, and of course a lobster roll each. The food arrived very swiftly, and we finished it equally fast. The tuna tacos were so crispy and fresh tasting, and the scallops were perfect. The deep fried oysters were served on a bed of seaweed that the waitress told me was not for eating when she saw me starting to attack it with a fork. I wouldn’t say that fried oysters make for a very flavoursome dish, but it is fun to try as a novelty. The lobster rolls came as our main course with fries on the side. The bread roll was too charred, and they could have held back a bit on the sauce. The lobster meat itself was really good, but overall this lobster roll does not compete with the likes of Burger & Lobster in London or Ed’s Lobster Bar in New York. We did thoroughly enjoy our meal though, and I’d definitely go back. When we had cleared our plates, the friendly waitress described their two desserts of the day, neither of which sounded like our types of sweets, so we decided to have another portion of the amazing tuna tacos to finish off the meal. Our evening was complete when they kindly allowed us to take a pair of their foam lobster claws. 

www.bobsandco.com

BURGER BASH FINAL

London, UK

The London Burger Bash arranged by Young & Foodish was the final cook-off between some of the best burger joints in town, held at Borough Market. After several qualifying rounds, the finalists were Bleecker StBurger, Patty & Bun, Burger Bear and Fred’s. I arrived at 2 pm, and although the space wasn’t particularly packed, there were long lines for everything. I was a bit confused about where to start, especially because Patty&Bun was cooking from the Street Kitchen air streamer. After circling around for a while, I got into the Buger Bear queue. Their beef patty was served with a sloe gin bacon jam and American cheese. The finishing touch on the disco burger was glittery, edible paint on top of the bun. The jam was a bit too sweet tasting in my opinion. Burger Bear should be given credit though for having the best bacon of the show. It was crispy, but not burnt, and complimented the beef patty perfectly. I then lined up for Fred’s Bacon Cheeseburger. This was really tasty, with balanced and straightforward garnish, but I found the very yellow colour of the bun and its texture a bit strange, so it didn’t get my vote. After a breather and a beer, we went to the Bleecker St black pudding double cheese number. I haven’t had black pudding since I was little, so I was a bit afraid of tasting this one. It turned out to work really well! The texture and flavour was great, although maybe a bit too greasy. The final burger was Piggy Rascal by Patty & Bun. This was the most complicated burger, thus I won’t list all of its ingredients. It had a delicious and runny sauce that spilled everywhere. My final vote went to Patty & Bun, but I was so full at that point that I wasn’t thinking clearly, so don’t trust my choice. Usually these burgers cost around the order of magnitude of £ 8 for a full burger, so getting four half burgers for the price of £47.5 wasn’t the best deal. There was however a slider by included in the price, a sweet coffee by Bicerin, and a huge portion of tasty and filling potato and sweet potato chips by Almost Famous Burgers. The chips were sprinkled with bacon crisps and a little Percy Pig sweet. I really enjoyed them despite being extremely full, and it was very upsetting to throw them in the bin almost untouched. Although I liked the atmosphere and food, I think the concept is slightly flawed. It was difficult to judge impartially when I was hungry for the first burger, ok for the second, full by the third and sick by the fourth. It would be better to try all the burgers at their full size on separate, and equally hangry occasions. Generally I prefer classic cheeseburgers, so the advanced concepts of these meals were not ideal for me. I should have skipped breakfast so I could have been more impartial in my judgement and gotten more value for money out of this event.

The winner was: Bleecker St Burger

www.youngandfoodish.com