ARZAK

San Sebastian, Spain

I went to Arzak in San Sebastian last year with my family to celebrate my father's birthday. During our weekend in the Basque country, we had lots of delicious and reasonably priced meals, but the reservation at Arzak was of course the event I was looking forward to the most. Located in an inconspicuous stone building, you wouldn't assume that this is a restaurant that has been part of The World's 50 Best Restaurants list continuously since 2003, and currently holds 3 Michelin stars. Once we entered, we were shown to a large round table, made more intimate with a large suspended hemisphere light above us. I will take you through the whole set menu, including photos of pretty much all of the dishes. We stuck to local beverages the whole evening, and started with a wonderfully dry cava that almost tasted like Manzanilla. After having a few sips, we were presented with a set of strange looking amuse-bouches, including black pudding served on top of a crumpled beer can, and a red prawn gyoza that was one of the most deliciously crispy things I've ever had.

The first starter I had, the Beetroot Blood Apple, was something that didn't sound that good when described on the menu, but which worked really well. It was a tiny dish, packed with sweet flavours of creamy foie gras. I was then presented with the Lobster Sea and Garden, which with its bright reds, greens and yellows, looked as good as it tasted. The final starter consisted of warm oysters served on top of a red salt stone, which was not my favourite. The accompanying seasonal vegetables were amazing, but I didn't love the texture and in-between temperature of the oysters.

We then moved onto the mains, and began with one of Arzak's most famous dishes, the Red Space Egg. This has been slow poached at 65°C, which creates an incredibly smooth texture, with a delightfully 80s yet original presentation, unlike anything else I've ever seen. The egg is somehow clad in the skin of a red pepper, surrounded by cereals and crispy pig trotters. A must-have at Arzak. Another standout dish for me was the Hake with Black Garlic. This was white fish at its best, with a diverse range of flavours and crunchiness in the garnish. The parsley stalks worked a treat with this dish. Other main dishes were the Monkfish with Rhubarb, and the melt-in-your-mouth Beef Cheek in Ink. The deer steak served with quinoa over a lotus leaf was absolutely a great dish, but with its Thai flavours it seemed out of place in the middle of a Spanish meal. Although some of the amuse-bouches were of Asian origins, it worked better, as they were kept together at the beginning of the meal. My sister was pregnant at the time, and the kitchen was very helpful in selecting alternative dishes for her. The braised oxtail she got instead of our rare steak looked so good I almost felt jealous of her dietary restrictions. 




When it came to the desserts, my favourite was The Big Truffle, a cocoa and sugar truffle that melts and opens up as chocolate is poured over it. The visually best presented dessert was the chocolate cube with a fluid core of mint, neroli and kiwi. This dish was a work of art. The selection of small chocolates at the end were a bit strange though. They were shaped as screws and bolts, served on a shiny metal plate, and just looked a bit like they were made by a child.



I usually feel a bit ashamed when I take photos in upscale restaurants, but the atmosphere was so chilled there that it was no problem. None of the guests were pretending that this was an everyday meal for them, so pictures (without flash) were taken a plenty. It also felt completely natural to pass dishes around the table to ensure that everyone got to taste everything. They made sure the birthday was marked properly, with an cake with a candle, which we were all too full to even touch. We were also given a tour of the kitchen. In general, the staff was friendly, and the chef, Elena Arzak Espina, made a point of coming over to each of the tables and speaking with the guests. It was an entertaining meal, where no two dishes were similar. There were so many different textures and presentations. Every single drop of sauce, even the ones that looked like water, held a huge amount of original and satisfying flavour. Dining at Arzak was a truly memorable experience.

www.arzak.info

BEDUA

Bedua is a restaurant located in Zumaia, in the northern Basque countryside of Spain just 20 minutes away from the seaside town of San Sebastian. Over time the restaurant has established itself as a culinary hotspot among locals and more increasingly tourists, as it continues to serve excellent quality and authentic food in a picturesque and serene setting. Bedua is nicely perched between hills overlooking vast expanses of farmland, much of which belong to restaurant, which locally grows all its ingredients on site. The restaurant itself is housed within a medieval ancient house dating back to the 15^th century, where its rustic interiors compliment the traditional offerings on their very simple and straightforward menu. Primarily specializing in steak, Bedua also offers a choice of delicious appetisers as well as seafood as an alternative to the meat. Accompanied by our Spanish friend, who has become a regular at Bedua, he naturally ordered for us, and his choices did not disappoint. We started with the Tortilla de Patata (potato omelette), the Pimientos Verde (grilled baby green peppers), the Panache de Verduras (a salad of mixed vegetables) as well as a Nicoise style salad, which came served with white asparagus. Even the simplest vegetables, such as the locally grown iceberg lettuce, had so much flavour and crunch. Collectively, all the appetisers were delicious and settled easily into our very hungry stomachs, and just opened up our appetites for our main dish. For the main we were served with the house special, the Chuleton a la Parrilla (the grilled steak), which we got to pick and approve prior to the chef grilling it. The steak was cooked medium rare and goes down as being one of the best steaks I have ever enjoyed. Only sprinkled with salt and without any sauces to distract from the quality of the steak, the taste of the meat was explosive; it could convert a vegan into a carnivorous diner. There is not much more to say about the food except: wow! What I love about Bedua is the simplicity of the recipes of what is being cooked, where the focus is on the quality of the ingredients. This is a true barometer of excellent food.

GI-3760  20750 Zumaia, Gipuzkoa, Spain

LA CUCARACHA

La Cucaracha is a French restaurant, with a bit of inspiration taken from across the border in Spain. It is located in Bidart, near the charming town Biarritz in the South-West of France.  I have been to this place three times now, as I love the atmosphere and the food. Their house special salad is a must, although its contents change often, so it's not always equally good. The last time I went it was served with calamari fritti, but I enjoyed it the most when it came with grilled scallops. The faux filet is juicy and amazing, and the portion is huge. The two-person serving is more than enough for three, given you supplement it with some of their delicious starters too. The oven-baked mussels with butter and cheese are a must, as is a plate of Serrano ham and bruschetta. If you are not in the mood for a huge steak, go for one of their fresh, grilled seafood dishes. The house rosé wine is wonderfully pale, but their cocktail mixing skills are not good. Stick to the wine. La Cucaracha is always lively, especially when the anthem of the Bayonne rugby team is played to commemorate the birthday of a guest. The older crowd (60 +) gets up to sing and dance, and I really want to go back there one day far off in the future to celebrate my 65^th birthday and have the time of my life.

Rue de l'Hubahia, 64210 Bidart, France

TABERNA GRAN SOL

This is a place worth travelling to if you love tapas. Taberna Gran Sol is located in Fuenterrabía in the Basque Country of Spain, a town with rigorous pintxos contest. This means that competition drives this town to bring out some amazing food. The restaurant does not look spectacular; it’s a casual place with outdoor standing tables and a few, busy indoor seats. In high season (July-August) you have to fight for a table, and if you do not succeed there are steps to sit on outside. You order and pay at the bar, leaving your name so that they call you to pick up the food as each tapa is ready. Whenever our group’s name was called, we would run with excitement to pick up some of the tastiest little plates ever. These are not your typical tapas, but unusual concoctions with adventurous flavours and textures. I’m not sure what most of the dishes consisted of in detail, but my favourite one is a soft-boiled egg served with thick chicken stock and crispy grated potato. The contrasting consistencies and the taste is truly special. There is too much good food to mention it all, but some of the highlights included a deep fried mushroom with cream sauce, octopus with ink and rice, cod and foie gras. Each plate was very rich and filling, and I was so happy each time a new dish arrived. To drink we had several rounds of refreshing Tinto de Verano, a mixture of red wine and lemonade served with ice. The bill was surprisingly low, especially compared to London. The only comment on the price is that one or two of the pre-paid dishes are often omitted, but by that time you are doubtlessly full, and I guess it could count as a form of service charge. Taberna Gran Sol is exquisite, and one of my favourite restaurants in the world.

Calle San Pedro 63, 20280 Hondarribia / Fuenterrabia, Spain

MALTBY STREET MARKET 

Maltby Street Market is a collection of stalls and shops located under the railway arches of Ropewalk in Bermondsey. It is not easy to come by, and it is unlikely to even notice it unless you are already aware of it. I went on a cold Saturday for lunch. Most stalls and bars close at 4 in the afternoon, so one has no choice but to start drinking early. There are the usual stalls of olive oils and sauces to take home, but as with any market, I mainly come for the ready-made and ready to eat snacks. I walked up and down the market to familiarise myself with the options on offer, and recognised a few stalls from Broadway Market. I opted for the Ox Burger by The Woolpack, which is actually a beef burger with braised oxtail on top, making it runny and difficult to eat without the aid of lots of napkins. It didn't look very appetising either; I would have preferred an actual oxtail burger patty, but it was nevertheless good.

We sat down for cocktails at the Little Bird gin bar. The gin is distilled in London, and each individual drink is served in a different glass. This quirky little place has a short and excellent cocktail list, with prices of only £5. A hot water bottle kept us warm under the dark brick arch. The Rhubarb Robin Negroni is refreshingly bitter, the Breakfast Martini is a bit too sweet for my liking, but definitely goes down a treat as well. After drinks we moved onto the Spanish jamon bar: Bar Tozino. It looks very authentic, but still follows London prices. The friendly staff gave us some sides and sherry for free, so I was more than pleased. Bar Tozino stays open later, and is worth the trip on its own, even when the rest of the market is closed. We even watched a vintage dance class performing, hidden within an antique furniture store. The overall atmosphere of Maltby Street Market is friendly and eclectic, and it is worth going there for an experience further to eating.

Maltby Street, Ropewalk, London SE1